yes, shoulders can be tailored, but only by a good tailor, and it is expensive. Waists are typically easier to a point, but there is only a finite amount of fabric at the seams, and far less if the suit has side vents. Often a better alternaitive is to find a store that sells "portly" suits, which are made for people with a 3" drop from chest to waist, rather than the standard 6" drop (7-8 for more athletic cuts). Brooks Brothers may still carry portly model suits, but not a lot of stores do.

The picture of the tux is not a well fitting suit. First, the lapels are buging slightly (although this may be the way the person is standing, and the button pulls at the front indicating it is a little tight (and in this case the button stance is a bit too high. You could come up with a better "ideal fit" that shows off a tapered waist that doesn't pull.

You tell people to dry clean their shirts, when you actually mean launder. Dry cleaning is entirely unecessary and far more costly. Laundering is definitely worth the effort for an all cotton shirt, although I would seriously question the increased longevity. The water temperatures used at commersial launderies is twice as hot as you could do your shirts at home, which over time wears a shirt out. That being said, ironing ones own cotton shirts is a pain, and I can't imagine many people doing this either.

Overall, from a current day stype perspective I think your comments are good. Unless you have huge thighs, flat-front pants are the way to go. Three button is pretty out of style, although I still wear a few as I'm not discarding perfectly good suits. If you get flat fronts, then no cuffs is the norm, so agree with you there as well.

But some of your advice is way off base, in my opinion. Suitcoats that are too tight look RETARDED. I was watching a TV sportscaster the other day (a gentleman who clearly spends a good deal of time in the gym) and his overly tight suit looked plain stupid. A suit coat should never be baggy, this is true, but a coat that pulls and looks stretched on is just as stupid. A truly properly fitted suit should be hard to get on and easy to wear. It should drape beautifully and accentuate the male form, not look like it's straining to stay buttoned.

Secondly, you need to broaden your horizons; pleated and cuffed trousers, high waistlines, etc. are not for everyone, but certain forms are flattered by such styles. For others, a flat front with no cuff is just the ticket. Wide, thick bodied, short men should never wear pleated pants with cuffs; it makes them look like fat dwarves.

On the other hand, tall slender gentlemen can rock the pleats and cuffs and look impeccable. Take a look at some photos of Mr. Carey Grant sometime, and you'll see just what I mean.

The rule of thumb for men's stylish attire can be summed up in this: a gentleman's attire should always be moderate, aesthetically pleasing and harmonious. Don't wear what someone else tells you is "the in thing" just because they say so. You would be surprised what looks awesome on certain people.

Fashion is fleeting; style is forever.

If you want a real suit, you go to companies that are expert in the subject, no crappy stores for $200… I suggest to anyone to go see expensive suits, feel them, try them. The day I've tried a Tom Ford wool jacket, I told myself "wow, this is quality". The day I have tried a Ermenegildo Zegna suit, I was amazed.

Shoes, go for at least Allen-Edmonds, A. Testoni. Forget the Gucci and Ferragamo, they still make crappy shoes in their lines.

John Lobb is arguably the best shoe maker in the world. You pay but you get quality.

If you want to look "passable", you can but a suit anywhere for any price. If you want to look "good", you can get a Boss suit (not too bad). You need to find a suit that fits you well when you try it on you (without too much alterations).

Try to find a suit that is at least "half-canvassed" and made in wool (thread 100). For the dress shirts, to find fitted ones is a nice thing but be intelligent and choose accordingly to your size. 100% cotton is a must.

For a real "James Bond" effect, you will need to go shop at expensive stores and to get a high quality suit. In all honesty, we all need to understand something: the bullshit that if a suit fits you well will make you shine like a hero is a half-false statement.

A suit that fits you well will help (of course) but is the fabric is cheap, you will still look cheap. You wanna look like James Bond, go for at least an Ermenegildo Zegna suit, Armani suit or Tom Ford suit.

Under that, you will not be James Bond "like". Dress shirts are the same thing, $100 for a dress shirt is a basic good one. $200 are better.

Example, Daniel Craig in Quantum of Solace, Tom Ford suit ($5,000), dress shirt ($300), tie ($200), shoes ($1,500), wool overcoat ($4,000). I'm not saying you need this precise stuff but still, you need to spend to look good.

Thanks!!

I work for an engineering company with multi billion dollar projects and 99% of the people don't wear suits, so I'm not sure why people are trying to push places like brooks brothers on people, they have some of the most ugly shirts, Sears has better looking shirts. So thank you for the confirmation that I'm not insane for thinking BB is old mans.

What are the rules for colours in a business professional environment sans jacket? Should it be broken up with a pattern? Stick to blues/lighter colours if solid etc.

Thanks!

Thanks for the share/post

The purpose here is to create a full silhouette from the shoulders down to the leg. – Just take a look at the suit warn by Cary Grant in North By Northwest. Pleated trousers that helped to make the whole look perfect.

Because pleated trousers are usually positioned higher on the waist (the natural waist) they help to create the perfect silhouette.

Having flat fronted trousers is no problem, but they are not necessarily the "Bond look' – they are more the Daniel Craig 'look'

What you are suggesting here is 'fashion' and as Coco Channel famously said "Fashion goes out of fashion" – take a look at Sean Connery in Dr No – except for the rather narrow lapels on his jackets, they could be easily worn today and still look amazing. All pleated trousers. The perfectly classic suit. Never dated, never out of fashion.

I don't wear pleated trousers, but they can and do work on certain people and are not necessarily baggy. One of the reasons for the pleats is to provide movement without bagginess. They shouldn't be being written-off on the strength of el-cheapo reverse pleated trousers worn popularly in America.
No-one will readily find very high-waisted trousers anymore, of the kind worn with braces, so I see the advice about the rise causing people to think a regular rise is too long (it isn't) and purchasing foolish hipsters, which look idiotic and immature as part of a suit. The best advice for trousers (not "a pant" that's women's wear talk) is to buy them to fit you correctly through the crotch and legs and have the waist and hems altered if necessary. It's cheaper and easier than fooling about altering the seams.

Three button jackets work well on tall people. All of Roger Moore's suits on The Saint were 3-button and looked very good. George Lazenby. btw, wore a fitted shirt in OHMSS, long before Daniel Craig and with better construction. Craig's styling is noting special and has no hallmarks of great style. Connery's Bond had a simple refinement with nice touches like the cocktail cuffs.

There was no mention of shirt cuffs, collars or ties.

Just my $0.02.

All it takes is to look at what looks good in magazines and the tips outlined in this article to make huge improvements.

With that said, I think I need to take some shirts and get them tailored.

-Sam

…then …

"I prefer to wear my pants lower and closer to my hips, just like good jeans."

That may be your preference, but sir, you are wrong here. That will make you look like a Williamsburgh hipster in his sister's pants. This is not a good look with a sports coat, and it's definitely not a proper cut for an adult's suit. Suit pants are hard to get right, but "jean cut" ain't right any more than grandpa pantaloons are right (though grandpa is way more right than this). Main thing to avoid is looking like you have poopy pants. Your solution might be good for off the rack. Since I squat heavy and am a snob, I can't buy off the rack anyway.

I think pleats can be OK in certain styles of suit. English country style or heavy tweeds, its almost mandatory.
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Though in 99% of cases, you're totally right. Much respect for all the rest; the "billowing sails as shirt" thing really chafes my well-dressed hide: seeing that is the worst.

GQ had a men's fashion issue recently and pointed out another few good tips. Watch out for baggy sleeves and the length of the sleeve is crucial. Having your shirt cuff exposed just a little actually makes your arm look longer and the look sharper.

I noticed double vent suits are in right now, but what's strange is that it goes with the fitted look. I find that double vent suits don't fit as well as the standard single vent in the back when fitted. I have both, but the single vent ones just fit better.