Men's Suits – 10 Crucial Buying Tips to Look Stylin' Like James Bond

darn, i wish you had written this article a couple of months ago when I had to buy a suit. I have lost 20 or so pounds since then anyway I guess. Good info. I was just looking at a picture of myself wearing a suit to a cocktail party a couple of weeks ago and it made me look very boxy, which is a shame, because my body is getting really dialed in now. Guess I need to buy a new suit ; )

I couldn't disagree more with tips 1-4. I used to think the same things about pleated pants and pant cuffs, then I finally got myself out of the Men's Wearhouse and went to a decent place where the staff didn't get hired yesterday. I've seen plenty of staff that "knew" how to measure and ended up with terrible looking clothes, even if they had good taste.

Get yourself to a Brooks Brothers or something and listen to them. Don't skimp, you'll still spend less than a designer label, and you'll walk out looking good. Your advice just helps avoid the symptoms of the real problem – poor products from a poor store. There's a reason they can sell 2 suits for $100 or whatever.

while I like to look good, I'm afraid I will not deliberately lose my leg mass

Nice post! I had never distinguished between the pleated and non pleated look. Now it's fricken obvious!

And the importance of a fitted button up shirt is right up there! The shirt which sticks out at your waist like a balloon looks ridiculously stupid!

I was looking at the executives in my organisation and noticing how they dress compared to the subordinates, and there is a clear difference. Even though the subordinates are office people and wear nice office attire, the execs are all fitted nicely.

Mensfashionblackbook!

In the immortal words of ZZ Top:

Clean shirt, new shoes
And I don't know where I am goin' to
Silk suit, black tie
I don't need a reason why
They come runnin' just as fast as they can
'Cause every girl crazy 'bout a sharp dressed man

Gentlemen, if you have a James Bond body, pretty please wear a suit this Valentine’s Day.

Rick,

Good point about maybe holding off until you get in the shape you want. It is a shame when someone loses weight and has to shell out more money for a suit that actually fits.

Jamaal,

You say you disagree with me, but it actually sounds like you do agree with me to a certain extent. Also…it looks like you didn't really read what I wrote and just skimmed a bit. I never told people to skimp. My #1 suggestion is Hugo Boss, which I think is more in fashion and hipper than anything Brooks Brothers carries…it is also about the same price. I never recommended 2 for $100 deals or anything at that level. Brooks Brothers isn't bad, but is slightly "country club" for my liking. A great place for conservative business suits however.

JC,

I had to throw that in there…You know my thoughts about massive legs.

james,

I know I will get some flak for making such a strong statement against pleated pants…bottom line, it isn't Bond like to wear pleats. All of the little details I outline add up to a sharp look. People can tell when someone looks sharp, even if their eye isn't trained to catch all of these small details.

Meg,

I have helped countless guys get dialed in for weddings, formal events, dates, etc. They were always surprised at the reaction of the women in their life.

-Rusty

Thanks for the tips, Rusty! I know you're a guy but could you post some tips or have a stylish female guest post some tips for the ladies too?

Holy crap.

Thank you.

Daniel Craig is my "summer goal," both in physique and fashion (though not hairstyle) and might as well be a career model for me, too! I feel like I'm in some sort of cosmic zone where the resources to make things happen are cropping up in places I'm always looking anyway.

You rock.

I completely agree with every one of your tips. Most men have no clue how a suit is supposed to fit. I work with many that don't even have their suits tailored except for maybe the pants. Nothing worse than a guy swimming inside a suit that's too big. I don't care how much they paid for it, it looks cheap.

And to the guy that says that pleats and cuffs are OK so long as you spend some real cash on the suit… I don't know who you're talking to but I'd seek another opinion. Pleats do nothing but make you look bigger around the waste and distract from the overall look. It's also a very dated look. Flat front pants with a normal hem is the way to go. And not just for men… women too.

Mad fly advice, perfect for the young prototype G tryin to get his style locked down tight. Bravo Rusty

Hey Rusty – great suggestions – nice add on – heck once we're all in the shape we want then its great to have a proper fitting suit to show off in.
I must admit to owning a double breasted back in the day – oh yeah!! And the last time I had a suit on was probably 5 years ago – time to go shopping.
Jeff

Hey I agree with you totally Rusty. I too was a victim of ill informed suit salespersons.

I learned your tips from GQ magazine a couple of years ago and I have not looked back since.

Also, your readers can check out 'Zara' clothing for that James Bond look that wont break the bank. the average suit price there is approx. $290. they feature 1 and 2 button suits, low rise waists, and slim cut style that can fit a 235lb. muscular guy like myself.

Great post…. much needed!

-p.s. one of your readers mentioned Brooks Brothers???!!?? respectfully, you wont catch a guy under 35 wearing such "stuffy" contraptions

Great post – I just bought a suit recently for a wedding and think I managed to hit most of these points (thanks to my lovely lady I have to admit). That said, your point about the shirts is invaluable, thanks! I'm working toward losing another 5kg (about 11 pounds) over the next couple of months (before heading over to the US for a month's holiday), at which point I'll be looking at buying some new shirts, so I'll definitely be going with fitted.

I have to say that I personally agree with all of this and as a slim/fit guy I've been practicing this for years. I never tailored my shirts but always knew I needed to. Just so friggin pricy when you have 20 of em but you gotta do what u gotta do.

Some guys manage to pull off the cuffed, pleated pants and look good. I tend to be more chic and simple whereas a more traditional look would encompass most if not all of what you say not to do. Either way the styles aren't exactly easy to pull off. Cool post.

I need help! I can go years and not wear a suit. I am 44 years old now and still have my gray high school suit and blue blazer (yeah, gold buttons with anchors on them), and a charcoal suit with faint pin stripes that is at least 20 years old. It got attacked by a hungry moth years ago so I just colored in the lighter bare spots with a dark marker! Yeah, I'm stylin'!

Is there a time of year to get the best bargains? What do you recommend for a single suit wardrobe…color, solid vs stripe, etc? What brands other than Hugo should I check out for a good athletic cut? What about fitted shirt brands? I might not need this suit for several years so I am in no rush!

We can discuss ties and shoes another time…sigh!!!

My understanding is that pleated front pants were meant to be worn higher up with braces to avoid that pinched waist silhouette. Putting a vest over that will hide any pleat creases and the braces, more fitting for a traditional tuxedo look. If worn properly will give a nice line to the legs, but I guess you have to have the braces and vest. I prefer non-pleats myself though.

If I bought a suit jacket and lost a lot of weight after that, is it still possible to send it to a tailor to take in the sleeves and the bottom/sides as long as the shoulders still fit? It will be quite a waste to leave behind an otherwise perfectly good suit.

Great tips on the shirts – if you travel to Asia you can get super deals in Hong Kong or China.

I like your advice on wearing two times before cleaning, but do you have any tips to avoid the dingy yellow collar stains (oils and such from the neck)?

Hey, I'm in Seattle. Where's ya suit store at man?

Great post, Rusty. I am a GQ subscribing, James Bond fanatic. Most men have terrible fashion sense, so I was apprehensive about reading your post (I don't know why, you are right about everything else you write about). I'm glad you have impeccable taste and are disseminating it to the masses.

I do disagree with one thing, though, Sean Connery is by far the best James Bond.

Thanks for the tips. Hubby is due for a new suit after he loses his belly.

Nice post Rusty,

My sentiments exactly.
I purchased a Hugo Boss (selection range) suit 2 years back and have never looked back. It actually fitted me straight off the rack, required no alterations whatsoever and looks like it was made for me.

The quality of the suit is most of the battle.

Rusty,
I am 6', 165lbs, and wear a 40 Regular. I know exactly what you are taliking about with your tip#3, and the "crouch hanging low" I always try to get my tailor to "take the sagging out", but there is only so much they can do. Other than a Theroy suit (which is too tight even on a guy with my build), I have never been able to find one that addresses this problem. I have tried Hugo Boss, but the same problem. I know they have a "Red" label , maybe that is the ticket. What do you think about an "athletic cut" suit? That may solve a lot of peoples problems.
As for your special tip section, Long Arm- Long Leg- Short Torso, are you saying instead of a 40 Regular, I should try a 40 Short, as long as it covers my "backside".
One point you didn't cover, but is very important, is "vents". Two vent, single vent, or no vent. I have always wore no vent, but am starting to wonder if that is too "80's".
Thanks.

The perfect suit: Remember black suits only for weddings and funerals so go with charcoal gray to start a collection or add a new suit to current collection. Also tie width and lapel width should be about the same….

Color and Fabric: Charcoal gray, in a four season wool from a top-notch textile maker like Loro Piana.

Jacket: Moderate width notch lapel. Two buttons (always) sorry Rusty! Top welt and front flap welt pockets. Go double back vents. (Yanks can go single vent.) Functional four-button cuffs. Light/non-existent shoulder padding.

Pants: Flat front, straight leg cut. Tab waist with zip closure. On seam front pockets, back welt pockets. No cuff.

This is a suit for a decade, at least. Let me know how it turns out.

Yeah rusty I agree with you on the mandarin collar part. But they seem to be in fashion these days… Anw, I have to defend rusty on the pleated pants. My college uniform comes with pleated pants and they're in the super baggy cut! I bought 3 pairs, couldn't stand them and had 2 of them altered to slim fit while the other altered skinny. Only the skinny one cancelled out the ghastly pleats! The slim cut ones had the thigh area bulging out. Just horrible. Why do schools think that baggily cut clothes make students look smart????!!!!

Perfect post! Just in time as I need to purchase a suit. I am definitely on the leaner side and I always struggle to find good shirts. Good idea to have the shirt tailored. Kenneth Cole has nice shirts with the slim fit option, not sure if that is suit quality or not, but none the less I have had success with their slim fit. Great post, awesome site! Keep at it!

great tips! it's all so clear to me now
now i know what to avoid when getting clothes for my man. sometimes, it's not that we've bad taste but we just can't pinpoint what makes something look good or bad.

i like mandarin collars though…haha! find them quite elegant.
gotta admit though, it's rather tricky to pull off. not everyone can wear it and look good.

I agree with your advice except for the tip number 2. I work in a very conservative business and pleated pants are absolutes. Not wearing them would be a death sentence.

Great advice on the shirts. Now I know why they always seem so baggy!

Connery's Bond did wear pleats I believe.

http://imagecache2.allposters.com/images/pic/MMPH/B72660~Goldfinger-Posters.jpg

Great post Rusty.
But what is your advice for 'short guy' I am 5'6" and always have a hard time. That along with short torso and short legs really stacks things up against me. I flat out refuse to hit the childrens section! ;0)

Great post, agree with everything you said. H&M usually have well fitted suits for around $100.
Also, may I add that slim suit and shirt would require a slim tie. Usually 2- 2 3/4 ties work best. Slim tie would also mean that the collar should be narrow.

Hey Rusty,

I live in Denmark and the people here are very sharply dressed in general, despite the event…
I just want to back you up 110% on the shirt deal. ALWAYS go for the fitted shirt. I can't believe you can still buy the other stuff..! It makes all the difference if a shirt is going to look good on or not!
One thing I notice when I am in the US, people often wear clothes that are too big. (not everybody, but lots do:) and it looks terrible. Get over it.

Please remember the two very important sayings –

Dress to impress… Always!
And – Looks is everything *LOL*

Have a nice weekend everybody.

ive read visual impact and all that.
Most of my weight is around hips,ass and legs. Should i do weight training for legs in 20+ reps ? or should i do in the 1-3 reps? im also doing HIIT etc.

"I managed a men's suit store for over 6 years. I've literally trained 100+ suit salesmen and have sold thousands if not tens of thousands of men's suits" – For this reason alone, there is no question or doubt about your tips and suggestions right there. I would definitely follow your tips for my husband. Your post has been very useful. Thanks a lot!

Fantastic info Rusty! I must admit my suit vests are not slim fitting like your example in the pic. Need to know what do work on LOL.

Pleats saved my Ass. I went to pleats because I have a big but compared to my waist. When I wear unpleated pants they stretch in the front – not a good look. A tailor recommend me to go to pleated pants several years ago and it solved my butt problems. So are you saying that with proper tailoring unpleated pants would work on me?

Great post. But please don't dry clean shirts. Have them laundered!

http://www.gq.com/style/style-guy/care-and-storage/200001/dry-cleaning-pants-shirts

@Mike, I work in an extremely conservative environment. Suit and tie everyday in the South. Wearing pleats is only necessary for older overweight men. I promise. If you're under 60, you're too young to wear pleats in my opinion.

What about shorter guys? I'm 5'6" and have difficulty finding a suit that looks really good, although after reading one of these posts I think it could be in the shoulders with me, maybe get no padding. Definately agree with all the tips here, never really thought about the pleats before, just knew they make you look like an old man.
I have a nice FC shirt that isn't quite right, maybe a touch of tailoring.

Mandarin collars make you look more like a Bond villain than Bond.

Thanks
Simon

Thanks, Rusty! My husband needs a new suit, and I am not good with men's fashion. This is perfect!

Hey,

I saw this post and was hoping you had it right….and you do. Daniel Craig is the best dressed man out there right now in my opinion. The suit he is wearing for the majority of Quantum of Solace is about as perfect as they come.

http://www.webwombat.com.au/entertainment/movies/images/quantum-of-solace-1.jpg

My only complaint is that the sleeves are a hair too long, but the rest looks so good it doesn't matter.

I work for a large nonprofit that is constantly dealing with CEOs/high level execs, and it amazes me how many of them wear jackets that are three sizes too big. Recently at a meeting, one guy was wearing a suit that was probably custom made, and it really made him stand out from the $4,000 misfitted sloppy sacks everyone else was wearing. What amazes me is how (even though I'm only 5'8") I have big shoulders, yet I wear a 38R (usually). I know in the chest and the shoulders, most Americans are not that much larger than me….but it always seems like all any stores stock is 44s. I also can't stand when pants are too long or when I see all of my fellow college students dress up and button all three buttons of the jacket. Three button suits bother me to begin with, but the buttoning of the bottom button makes it even worse. And the big square, unshaped arms of American suits. And the pants with tons of fabric in weird places (the knees??!?). And the fact that even Banana Republic and Express "fitted" shirts are too baggy in the middle. UGH.

Anyway, now that I've ranted plenty: ZARA is my choice for cost effective suits. I'll screw around in Saks and throw on a Valentino jacket, and they fit the same. They basically rip off the cuts of the top end designers measure for measure and make it in Morocco. The result is the best fitting off the rack suit (they sell them as separates too) you can find for under $300. Still won't fit like Daniel Craig, but unless Tom Ford is stitching it himself….it probably won't. They have them here in the Northeast, but not sure where else. They're the number 2 clothing retailer in the world though…so they'll be coming to you soon I'm sure.

End of rant. Thank you for picking a subject that needed addressing.

Rusty,

Thanks for this post. I bought a Ralph Lauren suit awhile back from Mens Wearhouse and I believe I broke almost all those rules. It is a nice suit, but for some reason it always looked baggy to me.

Fitted dress shirts? I never knew that. I absolutely will be getting mine properly fitted as you recommended.

Is there anyway to get my suit adjusted so it fits like you recommend here? I am 6'2" and 175, so a slimmer suit would look perfect on me.

Superb post Rusty. Now when I go to buy my second suit I'll know exactly what I am looking for.

Dan

GQ has a nice minisite on getting a suit to fit your shape.

For guys with bellies, they advise "avoid having to choose between strapping your pants above or below your belly: Wear suspenders and float your waist. " Old fashioned, but I think it makes sense.

Reduce leg mass? I don't think so. Good article though.

Hey Rusty, great post! I agree that the pleated pants make a man look bigger around the hips and waist. But what alternative is there when a man is – how shall I put it – a bit more well endowed than the average guy? Not to brag or anything, but lets just say that I'm a lucky wife Non-pleated pants are just too revealing! Any tips?
Thanks!
Luna

Tim D,

Duly noted! I am hoping to drop just a last few pounds and then get a nice suit. I'm hoping someone comments on the best time of year, as most things tend to have a seasonal bargain time. It is also hard living in a small town without easy access to a larger city for the best tailoring and suit selection.

Many thanks!

J. Crew has very flattering cuts made in a much higher quality than most typical mall brands for a reasonable price. You could score a very nice slim fitting suit (try the Ludlow) from them for less than $600.

Another option is to look on e-bay for new suits. If you know your size and have a good tailor (I recommend Andres Gorges in SF if you live in the Bay Area) try to find a Ralph Lauren Purple Label or Black Label. These are some of the highest end suits you can buy before you go fully bespoke; they are designed for rich people that didn't want to fool around with custom. Black Label is especially fitting for the dapper Bond look, and you can probably find a $5000 suit for under a grand.

Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but Craig wore Tom Ford suits throughout the film, a notoriously hard brand to fit into well.

Nice post Rusty – after all, no point doing all the hard work to look great without your clothes on, then mess things up with a poor looking suit!

I've got an office job and there's some nice tips on offer here. On the tie front, I personally like to stick to a windsor or half windsor knot to complete the look.

As a slender, taller guy with not the world's most bull-like neck, the shallow cut wide angle collar a bit like the one Jude law is showing suits me better than the more pointy 70s style collar like Mr Craig has. I think its a good general rule, if you have a thin long face go for these wide collars but if you have a rounder face maybe consider a larger pointed collar to elongate your face.

My girlfriend also has a thing about braces – I have a few pairs but haven't really got the guts to sport them in the office, so I save them for tuxedo times. Only old snooty bankers or accountants get get away with the red braces…

In my opinion, one of the most helpful posts you've done fine sir.

So true about #1 and might I add that even if it's a female that is helping you out – don't be afraid to mention the things up above. Not all of them know how to dress a man especially in a suit.

#3 is great as well – I have pants that look like MC Hammer's leftovers because of old man rise measurements.

Most of all thank you for #6. I have a bunch of older dress shirts that I still love but make me look like the michelin man with all the billowing and poofing happening at the waist. This has now been moved up on my "To Do" list at home.

Thanks again!
Dave

Rusty, I think I matured a little bit just by reading this post

Rahim Samuel
Publisher, Wellnessbymanymeans.com

I finally see that there is an alternative to my shirts puffing out around my waist. Thanks for tip #6. Like most of us that have an athletic build, it is hard to get shirts that fit the chest and shoulders, but are not too big around the waist. I always just wore them that way. I should of thought about getting them tailored specifically for my body. I guess I just always thought of suit coats and pants as getting tailored, but not dress shirts. Sometimes the obvious just escapes me! Thanks, Rusty. Your more of a life coach than just a fitness blogger!

A bit more information on a nice fitting suit and why to avoid your precious Hugo Boss

http://community.artofmanliness.com/profiles/blogs/art-of-maniless-suit-school

Excellent post!! Very good tips Rusty, especially #6, I just bought a "tailored fit" dress shirt from J. Crew that is still very big in the arms and billowy on the sides. I was just going to live with it but if I can get it tailored for only 15-20 I will be getting this done. Thanks agin for the tips. I know you have done it in the past but I think you may be due soon for a whole casual style post.

Just kidding about being Anna Wintour. Is that her name and correct spelling?
I should tell you that I can't dress myself, at all. Too cheap and a little plump.
I can dress other people. Ok. British men look gay in their double breasted, pin striped suits with the double vent. Fine. Sorry, but it's true. Can't stand really pronounced stripes! Makes me want to vomit. Bad look. Got to have a tie that is not too skinny and not to wide. Shirt? Well, button down is my favorite, but not with a suit. Tapered? Yes, but not too too. Looks kind of gay. What's with all this gay stuff. Ok. I guess pleated is out of style and has been. You actually look leaner if you don't have pleats. Is that what you are
striving for? OK, good. Why am I so damn opinionated? Don't know.
Just am.
I've noticed something. Only American's are preppy. When you get right down to it, what is greater than a preppy guy? NOTHING. It's a………ah…………what is it? It say's something about you. You know those Main Line preppy guys, do you? Yeah. OK. Well, you see it in places like Nantucket Ma and Boca Grande Fl. It never gets old. If you are trendy it goes out of style and you have wasted a lot of money. Who has money to waste? Not me, said the flea.

What do I know? Not much. Wear what makes you feel comfortable.
Jesus, I hate when people spend all their money on clothes. What a waste.

But hey, go to NYC and look around. That's the ticket. I need to shut up. If you saw what I was wearing, you would probably throw up! Guess what? I don't care.

Only idiots use "Gay" as an insult

Excellent post rusty!
I'm from CostaRica and I want to thank you for your tips. All your advices are incredible helpful.
I really hope to see more of this fashion tips as I've always thought that Body and Clothing complements each other.
Thanks again!

This is great advice Rusty. I'll let you in on my secret: vacation in India. I got all of my clothes tailor made there for pennies compared to what I would've paid here. This is after paying for high quality fabrics and finding some of the best tailors around [a few locals that my father has been using since he was my age, and another that used to tailor for Indian movie stars.]

Being well dressed, especially in a suit, can make a huge difference. Tailored clothes are especially good at making guys in shape look more masculine and muscular, since regular suits/dress shirts have way to much fabric like you said.

Great Post to sum it all up in one place. I see it now how I believed in tips 1-6 without ever realising them altogether, plus the way you described it was very well.

Great guide. For much of my life, I've been partial to pleats and cuffs, which breaks 2 of your cardinal rules. Can't really say why, just the way it has been.

For my last suit, I took my wife. No pleats. No cuffs.

Shows what I know about style…

Great post as always, I love this site I've followed it for a long time, it talks a little bit of this and that, fit and classy lifestyle.

hey rusty! do u have a contact email? I downloaded your vacation blueprint report (it looks awesome so far!!) but I have some questions about it… thanks!

Good stuff Rusty, thanks! I'm going to find a boyfriend just so we can go suit shopping

I always wondered about the shirts, I'm one of those skinny long arm long leg small torso guys. I found mexx shirts size medium fit very well on me, but maybe I just go lucky with one of them. I found an article about tailoring the shirt yourself, but haven't tried it yet.
http://manmadediy.com/chris/posts/63-how-to-tailor-a-button-down-shirt-for-a-perfect-fit

rusty — found a contact email in my address book. I sent you an email. hope that's ok look foward to hearing from you!

Wow Rusty,

Looks like the fashion tips are a bit hit! Maybe you should add a fashion post every couple of months or so just to help the clueless amongst us (ME!) with basic fashion sense. I also appreciate the good comments other posters have shared. There is hope for me yet!?

Rusty, I think its about time this post was written, and you can see by the feedback already that people like it.

For those of you that are interested, Tom Ford hand made Daniel Craig's suits. I think, ultimately in this day and age, that the new stuff isn't always the best. I only wear 2 button suits myself and I consider myself a stylish guy. I must say however, most of the old movies hit it right. Guys like Paul Newman and Steve McQueen are style icons for a reason, and alot of the films from those eras just look so much better because of the wardrobe. Even an action movie like The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly makes use of wisely picked sartorial choices.

All of the vintage or old school stuff you may find is made better, usually constructed better, and also fits better. My dad gave me this jacket once and 2 pairs of pants and they are awesome. My grandpa has always been a real stylish guy.

I am also partial to old school ways of working out as well.

Style is lost on most of the people that walk the streets. Also Rusty, I just wanted to add that Etro is my favorite brand for suits.

And Jamaal: that article is interesting especially because it noted that "Lord and Taylor, Neiman Marcus, or Nordstrom" carries "$5000 on a Brioni or Isaia suit". Those stores in fact don't carry those brands, and I believe that Barneys is the only story to carry Isaia. Rusty can like whatever brand of suit he wants as long as it fits him well. Fit, proportion and construction are the 3 things to look for in all clothes and I think construction is last if everything else looks in order; the layers of the suit's inside fabric don't matter as much.

Woah! Rusty…I totally love you man!!! (& I am straight as an arrow!) I am getting married in a week's time and I’ve been looking for help all over the net for buying suits…and guess where do I find the MOST relevant & useful info…on a fitness/ workout website! Amazing.

I totally dig your tips & am going to follow them when I buy my suit (in next 2/3 days). However, I have a few queries; I will REALLY appreciate if you reply to them:

1. You're recommending coats that are restricting in movements & yes, they do look good. BUT, i have man-boobs (though my belly is comparatively not that big) and if I go for the jacket of your style then the jacket will be fit from the chest. I fear there’ll be unnecessary sweep. What to do?

2. The low rise pant, I believe has a fitting similar to a Jeans. I have one such pant but it’s a constant pain. Especially when I sit, I am always adjusting it! Any solution to this?

3. Apart from this. Please suggest me how to sit & stand while wearing a nicely fitted suit. I believe dressing a decent suit also requires having a certain body language and since this is a big day and I am going to be looking at these photographs for decades to come I wanna make sure I look good! Please guide me about this too.

Thanks a ton in advance. Hope to hear from you real soon.

Cheers!

PS. You really know this craft well. Post more on this or have a separate site for the same. You'll do good!

Hey Rusty,

I´m in Barcelona right now with my Fiance. We got really cheap tickets and said ¨why not´? The food is amazing and so is the culture. It´s been a great trip with a week more to go.

Anyway, I´ll be getting married in August and also need to buy a suit for just general use. Could you recommend a good tux and suit shop in Seattle for me? What is the best place to go for a good tailor for suits and dress shirts pants etc? What stores do you recommend?

Thanks Rusty, you´re the best.

Mike

Wow, this information is just what I've been looking for for a while. Very much appreciated, it's going to be my buying guide now. Thanks, Rusty.

Rusty,

I consider myself an immpecable and fastidious dressed man all the way down to my salvatore farragamo shoes.

This is by far the best guide I have ever read concerning suit selection. I always wondered about pleats and agree with you 100% on cuffs. You also demystified the pants rise to me.

I am going to make it a point to come to seattle and have you fit me for a few suits if that's cool with you. I am truly impressed and thank you for this post.

nice post, agree with allot if this

off topic question.

u outlined 3 phases in visual impact, im soon finished with face 1( finaly) but i was wondering about if i could skip phase 2 and hit phase 3 right away with ending up with the same results.. or is it " crucial" that i make sure to do phase 2 also

you would help me out allot if u could answer this, thx allot rusty D:

Hey Rusty!,

Thanks for this website, I seriously thought of sending you a gift because your tips helped me a lot to get in shape.. I have always been little chubby now finally I am getting skinnier.

I have a question:
I try to create a deficit of 1000 cals everyday (if I do that I lose 1 pound per day). I started a week ago 7 pounds melted off already, I plan to do it for two more weeks, then I will stop. Is this too much?

On the days I go to the gym, I eat around 1000 cals (my bmr is around 1300, 500 gym 200 walking to/from school), if I don't go to the gym I eat 600 cals (1 serving of lean meat, huge salad, fat free yogurt and apple). I try to take multivitamins every two days, I also do intermittent fasting twice a week(eating window : 1pm – 4pm). I cheat one day a week (I eat hazelnuts, almonds, belgian chocolate, lots of fruits and glasses of wine). I do paleo.

Please give me some advice. So far, it doesn't feel wrong, but I do not wanna jeopardize my health. Btw I am 1.67 m 59 kg (5.5 129 Ibs)

Thanks!
Bianca

Hey Rusty,

I'm not sure where to comment, but I was wondering if you could do a post about losing body fat for women without losing the fat in their breasts. I work at the gym and my female clients main cocern is the reduction in breast size after they lose weight. What are your thoughts?

Thanks for the great info, Rusty!

Nat,

I may do a ladies post at some point. It would probably be a guest post. Heck, I should have my girlfriend do it…she is a clothing designer and her line is carried in hip downtown boutiques. Maybe in the future at some point when she isn't so busy designing and creating clothes.

Eric,

You are the one who rocks. Daniel Craig is a great role model and not just in his Bond films. He dresses pretty sharp and stays fit all the time.

Alex,

Baggy = Cheap when it comes to suits. No way getting around that. I'd rather have a cheaper suit that is tailored to fit than and expensive baggy suit. The important thing is finding a good tailor who likes that same look…and who understands fashion.

Caleb,

You are killing me with the "fly" lingo. Actually pretty funny. Good stuff.

Jeff,

I am not a huge fan of double breasted, but I recently saw jude law in a fitted double breasted suit and he looked pretty good. What I dislike most about double breasted suits is the fact that they look terrible with the buttons unbuttoned.

Nnamdi,

I'll check out Zara for sure. I'm not familiar with that store. True about Brooks Brothers…a great store for conservative businessmen who are a bit older. A little too traditional and conservative for my liking, but solid for their target audience.

Jason,

Yeah…taking the shirts you have and getting them fitted properly will make you feel like you have new shirts. This makes a big difference in the look that it creates. Once you find a good Tailor, hold on to him or her…and give them a tip if they work for a department store.

JP,

I have seen a few guys who look okay in pleats, but just a general rule of thumb I would say it is best to avoid them. I would say 95 out of 100 guys will look much better in flat front pants.

Rodney,

I had a blue blazer with gold buttons and tan wool suit pants back in my fraternity days in the late 80's. The blue sport coat and tan pant combo is good for college, but probably not for business. The blue sport coat and grey suit pants is better, but still kind of collegiate. It is funny that most of those navy blue sport coats still come with the gold buttons. A great all purpose suit is grey…if you only had to have one suit. Some would say black, but they would be wrong. Let's say you get invited to a wedding as a guest. The groomsman, caterers, limo driver etc. often times wear black. You don't want to dress the same as them. Can't go wrong with a grey suit.

TS,

True that pleated pants are made to be worn higher up on your waist. I don't like that look, because it makes the upper body look so short in comparison to the legs. You can get your jacket taken in. Make sure they do it properly by taking in fabric from the back seam of the jacket to bring the shoulders in a bit…as well as tailoring the sides a bit as well.

Edward,

I would love to go to Hong Kong or China to get some custom tailoring. As far as getting yellow in the collars I find that taking them to the Dry Cleaners is the best way to avoid this.

Kuzo,

I left my job almost a year ago and make a full-time income online now.

Bryan,

I am not right all the time, because so much of this stuff is an opinion. I do think I have a more direct approach to the hip "GQ" Hollywood look than most fitness sites. I appreciate the compliments. As far as Connery being the best Bond…I can't argue against that…I just like Daniel Craig's rugged bad-ass demeanor better.

Sue,

Great…hold off if you can on getting a suit until he drops a bit of weight.

Clint,

It is a great brand in my opinion. There are some brands constructed a little better, but this brand is good enough to last for 4-5 years and look good that entire time.

Robert,

Athletic suits help, but depending upon the brand they will still have a large rise. Also…if you are really lean, they still need to be taken in substantially. The plus side about an athletic cut suit is the drop (difference between the coat size and pant waist size) is 8 inches instead of the standard 6. What I mean by this is that if you buy a size 42 , it typically comes with a 36 waist pant (6 inch "drop"). If you go athletic cut in 42, it will come with a 34 waist pant (8 inch "drop"). As far as the long arm question…yeah, get a 40 short as long as the tailor can extend the sleeves to fit. Vents are more about preference. I've seen a lot of guys do the double vented and look great. Honestly, I don't have a hard and fast rule on this one. My suits have typically been double vented.

Tim D,

Totally agree with you on suit color. I also prefer 2 buttons and agree with all of the other points you made. You know a thing or two about suits as well.

Clement,

Baggy cut clothes are cheaper and to be honest I am guessing that there are more overweight younger folk than ever before. Good job and staying in shape unlike the masses of others who let themselves go. The mandarin collar is one of those fashion trends you just don't want to be part of (like the mullet back in the 80's).

Kingebo,

Kenneth Cole is a good deal for the fit. It will take more tailoring than a more expensive suit, but the quality is decent.

Yoke,

Yes…I knew this would help women as well. Because to the untrained eye, it is hard to tell why one guy looks so much sharper in a suit compared to another guy. I made this post with that exact thing in mind. To give people the tools to be able to get the right look.

Mike,

Well…I guess you will have to just follow the other tips…and you should try and change the trend of pleated pants. Be a rebel!

Ben,

I think you are right…but these days he does flat front.

Craig,

You can get a coat re-cut, but it will add a bit to the price. Most of the good manufacturers make their suit in shorter cuts as well.

Jase,

I like a slim but not skinny tie. Good point.

Denmark,

People in Denmark, London, and Sweden are much better dressed than the average person here in the U.S. I have friends who were backpacking through Europe and they were especially impressed with how well the men dressed in Stockholm in particular. I HATE baggy clothes and always have…looks sloppy. Luckily Seattle in influenced by Vancouver to a certain extent, so many of the men dress well…but go 30 minutes out of the city in any direction and fashion disasters await.

Trygve,

You could cut out direct leg training altogether (at least until that area slims down). That is what I did over 10 years ago, because I was in the same position.

Cloe,

Certainly if you like the slim sharp European look then my tips are spot on. I do not a lot about suits (more than I would like).

Bart,

Get your vests taken in by a Tailor. This is usually pretty cheap.

Bruce,

Yeah…there are some physiques where pleats won't work as well. It is the best choice for 95% of men, but you might be in the 5% where it doesn't.

Dave,

I bet that is what they do when I bring them to the dry cleaners. I guess I just call it dry cleaning, because I take them to be cleaned and pressed. Thanks for pointing out the difference!

Simon,

You may need to buy a short and then do a suit re-cut. I would make sure and keep the shoulder pads in, but they can reshape the shoulders to make a clean look. You would be surprised what a good tailor can do.

Nelly,

Yes, just jot down these tips and ask for what you want when shopping for a suit. The suit salesperson will think you are a pain in the butt for being so well-educated, but your husband will come out looking great.

Trevor,

About his sleeves. Sometimes in movies they will make the sleeves a tiny bit long so the suit coat looks good when he is driving a car. If they fit right then the sleeves can creep up and look too short. This happens especially when a guy has big shoulders and arms. I learned this buy selling suits to Limo Drivers. We suggested longer sleeves to look better when arriving to pick people up. I'll check out ZARA…and see if they sell online. I like the sound of that.

Dan,

Mens Wearhouse is full of suits that are pretty outdated. So you are 6'2" and 175. I'm guessing a 40-41 Long Athletic (if you have long arms and a short torso you could try 40 Regular Athletic and see if they could extend the sleeves). I'm also guessing that you have around a 33 inch waist…so the pants should come close to fitting in the waist with little work.

Matthew,

Guys with big bellies are always the hardest to fit. The floating the waist thing works, but doesn't look great in my opinion. Hopefully I can help people lose their bellies so this won't be an issue.

Mike,

To me if someone has legs that are too big to fit in nice flat front pants, then they are simply too big. Even though it is controversial, I tell people to lose less mass all the time if their legs have too much muscle. It just isn't a great look in my opinion. I do take on quite a bit of criticism from bodybuilding sites for this viewpoint, but I stand firm on this opinion. It is cool to disagree…many people do.

Colin,

Those are great options. I guess a good approach before ordering online would be to try on some of those brands in the store to make sure that they would work…then order online.

Luke,

I can tie a great 1/2 windsor, but have been experimenting with different knots.

Dave,

Yes…sometimes it was a pain to sell suits to a guy when his girlfriend or wife was present. The stereotype is that women have better fashion sense then men and are great with colors. Some women are really skilled in this area, but the ones that drove me nuts were the women who had terrible taste. This was a small minority, because most women were cooperative and open to different ideas. The person with the best taste in matching funky ties and shirt combos was an 22 year old Vietnamese guy I hired a few years ago. Tailor those shirts and you will feel like you have a new wardrobe.Glad you like the post!

Rahim,

You are ready grasshopper…A mature man should know how to buy a stylin' suit

Kelly,

Tailoring your dress shirt will let people know how lean you actually are. That fluffy look gives the appearance of adding about 15 pounds of fat to your physique.

Jamaal,

All of the Hugo Boss suits I have had experience with last 6+ years and look good the entire time. I'm not sure this is a big issue.

CG,

When they are puffy in the arms and waist they look like pirate shirts. You might find a tailor willing to cut you a discount on tailoring shirts, if you get a bunch done. Have him or her do one first and then if it is good bring in the rest and see if they will cut you a deal.

Anna,

This is the weirdest comment I have ever received on my site. As far as your take on British men…they are considered by most of the world as the sharpest dressed men in the world when it comes to wearing suits. The preppy look in MA and FL is pretty darn boring and conservative. Take those same men and throw them in the middle of London or Stockholm and they will look sloppy. Also, your use of the word gay shows that you are a little bit behind the times in more than just fashion.

Henry,

I would love to visit Costa Rica someday. The only suit I will bring is my swimsuit

Yash,

A vacation in India must be a culture shock. I plan to go someday after I hit a few places in Europe and Australia first. I will certainly try to get a nice tailored suit when I'm there.

Divya,

Yeah…it just help to have them listed so you know what to tell the suit salesperson and tailor.

Greg,

Most women have a "no pleats" rule with their own clothes, so this makes sense. Actually a lot of the same rules apply for women's suits.

Pablo,

I do my best to mix in a bit of "class" and a bit of "cheese" with a hint of "dork" (Star Wars references).

Kristin,

I have a tough enough time keeping up with comments. If I made my e-mail available I would be overwhelmed. I do my best to answer as many questions as possible on my site…that way others with the same questions can benefit from the answers given.

Megan,

If you are going to find a boyfriend for suit shopping only, look for a guy about 5'11" and around 160 pounds. Those guys are really easy to fit!

TR,

Very cool about tailoring your own shirt. I don't have sewing skills, but my girlfriend is outstanding. The problem is that men's clothes bore her (she designs women's clothing). Maybe I could try an hop on one of her machines if I'm feeling daring.

Rodney,

Yeah…I could do a fashion post every now and then. There have been a higher than normal amount of comments…so there is certainly interest here.

Anthony,

I like vintage stuff as well. As far as Brioni or Isaia go, I just can't justify spending that type of money on a suit. I would be paranoid wearing a $5,000 suit. I would rather get a $1,000 suit and have it tailored to my exact specifications. Maybe my opinion will change at some point, but for now $5,000 seems excessive.

Raza,

Congrats on your future marriage. You can have it fitted, but with a little more give if you have man boobs. You can go low rise, but maybe not as low as your jeans. About posture…I read a body language tip a while back about "standing up like you are hanging from a bar by your teeth". Pretend you are actually doing this before you enter a room and then keep your body in this same position, but lower your head a bit. It sounds bizarre, but actually works and makes you stand up tall. I can't start another site, but will do more posts like this for sure.

Donkey Lips (aka Mike),

This sounds cliche, but check out Nordstroms for your suit…but don't get it tailored there. There are a few reputable Tailors on 4th ave near Westlake Center under the monorail. I forget the names of the places, because it has been a while. If money isn't a problem, Mario's is awesome…store and Tailor. In fact you might be able to bring in your Nordstrom suit to the Mario's Tailor…check first. They have the best and brightest.

gus,

If you don't need to gain as much size, then feel free to jump to phase 3.

Bianca,

You can do this for 2-3 weeks at most (then it is fine). Go back to a much less aggressive approach after this and you will be good. No gifts please, but thanks for the compliments!

lexi,

That would be a decent topic…I'll look into it. I do have big plans for a women's workout ebook this year, by the way.

Ryan,

You are very welcome!

-Rusty

Is there anything you don't have great advice on? I needed this post. I'm going to go buy a suit just for the hell of it! I have always wanted a nice suit and after reading this, I have all the information I'll need. Thanks Rusty!

Thanks for the awesome guide! After losing 20 lbs in the past year, I have found myself swimming in my clothes, especially my dress clothes which are supposed to look sharp. Little by little I am replacing my baggy clothes with nice, fitted threads. I'll print this out for next time I buy a suit.

[...] 10 Crucial Buying Tips to Look Stylin' Like James Bond [...]

I really, really hope all the guys take this kind of advice just as much to heart as the fitness stuff. To contemporary, young, *attractive* women especially, STYLE/PERSONAL CARE REALLY MATTERS.

Thanks Rusty, after doing BBFL and doing your Visual Impact workouts will enjoy getting sharp looking clothes to match the cool new fit lean look.

These are really practical tips Rusty that extend beyond just working out, into looking great and enjoying life too ~ now THAT is living life fully !

Great advice. Only thing I disagree with is Daniel Craig. The guy is in great shape but too rough around the edges and specifically in the face to be a proper effete british male aka bond.

Bond should have been either Jude Law or Jonathan Rhys Meyers.

Pleated pants….why do people buy pleated pants!

There is nothing sexier than a well dressed man. Contrary to popular opinion one of the best ways to show off a great physique is in a great suit. Think in terms of leaving a little to the imagination. We as ladies can tell by a well tailored suit who has been spending time in the gym and the allure of a hint of that hard work is always way sexier than a skin tight t-shirt and jeans although they do have their place. Thank you for doing woman kind a great service with this post.

Thanks for the tips!
I'd love a coat that fits in the shoulders as does your tuxedo at the top of this page (essentially the same fit Craig sported in his first Bond flick). I'm not a bodybuilder or a big guy as my chest is 44", my waist is 29" and my shoulder width at the widest point is 21".

I often end up with coats that are too narrow in the shoulders, like Jude Law's photo above, which is a very different look from yours and Craig's (my build is like yours and Craig's, not Law's). When I protest, tailors insist I don't know what I'm talking about. Currently, I own no coats.

How do I successfully convey to a tailor that I want him to highlight my shoulder width and not keep putting me into narrow chested coats? I've even shown pics of Craig's jacket and tailors think I'm nuts.

First off great article this is exactly what I was looking for Rusty, but I wonder if you or anybody else here can answer just a few more details for a first time suit buyer. I am young and don't have the money to drop on a Hugo Boss type suit and I am hoping to get something in the 300$ or less range. I realize Mens Warehouse and Jos A Bank are not very ideal for a stylish suit so I need some help. Someone mentioned ZARA clothing above and I think those look nice, but I am worried about the measurements since I have never been fitted for a suit before. What can I do? Do I just buy a suit online and then go get it tailored somewhere? Should I get measured at a suit store first or do they require you to buy their product? And lastly I am a little confused about the suit store vs the tailor, it's the same thing or different? Since this is my first suit should I just avoid buying online all together? I wanted to avoid Mens Warhouse but I need to get something and don't want to look like an unshapely box in my new suit. Thanks for any and all help Rusty. I love your site and I just stumbled upon it yesterday but cannot stop reading.

Casey,

Go to a Nordstroms or Macy's and have the suit salesperson measure you and then try on different coats and pants. Have them write your measurements on a card. Have them write your suit size on a card as well.

Ask for all the things I discussed in this article. Tell them you are just pre-shopping for a suit.

Order the suit online once you are sure of your size. Don't feel bad about this…it is part of a good suit salesperson's job to offer good service even if someone doesn't wind up buying from them.

As far as Tailoring goes. Call to Nordstrom's or Macy's or any other decent department store and ask if they tailor merchandise not purchased in their store. Many of them do.

-Rusty

Thanks Rusty for the tips I appreciate it, gonna give it a try

Hey Rusty

What do you think of this suit from Banana Republic. It comes fitted, 1 button and I'm a 5'10 150 LB male. Its called BR Monogram essential black single-button suit

http://bananarepublic.gap.com/browse/outfit.do?cid=5376&oid=OUT17840

Thanks and I'm becoming addicted to your site. Great job

Dear Rusty,
You are as wrong as you can be with your rule #1. Though there is nothing wrong with non-pleated pants.
That's OK that you don't see any reason why to wear pleated pants.
I can tell you the reasons and the difference between the two styles.
Non-pleated pants have a sporty look and are better for more lean men.
Pleated pants are more dressy, classy and are better for men with more curved bodies. If the pants are where they are supposed to be – at your waist line where your belly button is, the pleats lay flat and disguise the body curves, thus making a man look more like a better shaped man. Unfortunately, you had a wrong picture to show here. Too bad.
Also, the low rise pants are again more sporty and good for jeans and khakis which you use for work and outdoor activities. Normal, regular rise pants are just dressy pants, and are most suitable for business and other dressy occasions.
I hope this explanation will be enough to get you and your readers on the right track of what and where to wear.
Also, don't try to make everybody look like a James Bond. It is much better to be a very nice yourself.
I hope that in your life you are following exactly that rule.
Be yourself!
Thanks.
Vladimir
P.S. I had to repeat this comment after I saw a huge number of typos.
Sorry for that.

I'm quite sure I can pull off the James Bond look, besides I love that style.

I wish I had known all this information years ago. Thanks for the article. I love it. Just lost 44lbs and need to lose around 20-30 more. Once I am there I will with the knowledge from this article be going out, getting some 'killer' suits and hitting the town with my wife, BIG TIME!

I wish I had known all this information years ago. Thanks for the article. I love it. Just lost 44lbs and need to lose around 20-30 more. Once I am there I will with the knowledge from this article be going out, getting some 'killer' suits and hitting the town with my wife, BIG TIME!valuesuit.com

Great article. Question for you, I just picked up a hugo boss jam/sharp suit. The only thing I don't like about it is the pants are slightly tapered. They say it's the "slim new modern look". I'm on the fence – I'm used to wearing boot cut jeans, not pants that feel like tights near my ankles. What is your stance on the taper? I don't see it mentioned, you're right on about pleats and cuffs though, rock on.

Hi there…actually the tuxedo jacket as pictured tip #5 is a pinch too tight around the chest, as the lapels curve. They should fall straight like Jude Law's jacket as in #10.

Also…tips for short guys: make the break on the pant leg as minimal as possible, wear shorter jackets, taper the jacket sleeves, wear pinstripe suits, and wear shoes that are slightly more elongated than typical. Ties should be solid. Make sure the overall fit is slim, rather than baggy and blousey.

The BEST LOOK for this slim, athletic 6'1" 180lb'er:

1. Single-breasted, 2-button
2. Dual Vents
3. Flat front slacks
4. No pants cuffs!!
5. Ticket Pocket
6. Pick stitching
7. Charles Tyrwhitt Slim/Tailored Fit, French cuff shirts with monogramming and windsor/cutaway collar
8. Italian suit brands like Gino Valentino & Bianco Brioni (about $2000, MADE IN ITALY)
9. Full windsor tie knot
10. Gucci/Armani/Versace/Dolce cologne

Great article – this guy knows his stuff.

RE: Gino Valentino & Bianco Brioni (Cost is about $200, not $2000)

Your tips are the best and most accurate I have ever come across! I worked part-time in a department store whilst I studied at college and I seriously can't tell customers how important the fit of the suit is! Honestly you can buy a really expensive brand name suit but if the fit isn't right than it won't make any difference.

Funny thing is, if the suit feels too comfortable than it probably isn't the best fitting suit for you.

I understand what you're saying about shirts in the USA having way too much fabric. This is also the norm in Australia. The reason being is that the USA and Australia are typically the most obese nations in the world (60% of population). Thus, the market needs to adapt to the "average" population sizing. Whereas in Europe and Asia the shirts and suits are much slimmer and more tailored.

I agree with you except when it comes to pleated pants.if you have a flat stomach the are fine.

Rusty-

Thanks for this info!

It is finally time for me to step it up and buy a suit. (My new job requires it!)

So hopefully now I will be styling and not looking like a total tool and/or slob!

Any suggestions on the best shoes for style AND comfort?

Thanks again!

-Ian

knowing that i will soon have to start wearing one, i have been looking for a suit for some time– thoroughly disconcerted by the process of revealing my ignorance about the subject. i was beginning to think that knowing how to buy a suit was knowledge passed from father to son or something. seriously, thank you. i feel just confident enough to go and buy my first suit.

Hi, this article is great and stands out from the generic ones.

I want to know if the rules on length apply to jackets and blazers as well. I saw a vintage one at a 2nd hand store but the length seems shorter than the recommended length. Is this ok for casual jackets? Here is a link to the photo I took at the store:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/i_predict_a_riot/5117299658/

Oh and don't mind that the pants don't match. I was jusy trying on the jacket over my work pants.

I have two expensive suits that I bought before I learned all these tips. Good to have these out there.

GQ had a men's fashion issue recently and pointed out another few good tips. Watch out for baggy sleeves and the length of the sleeve is crucial. Having your shirt cuff exposed just a little actually makes your arm look longer and the look sharper.

I noticed double vent suits are in right now, but what's strange is that it goes with the fitted look. I find that double vent suits don't fit as well as the standard single vent in the back when fitted. I have both, but the single vent ones just fit better.

Love your website, but then I run across this:
"Don't Assume A Suit Salesperson Has Good Taste"

…then …

"I prefer to wear my pants lower and closer to my hips, just like good jeans."

That may be your preference, but sir, you are wrong here. That will make you look like a Williamsburgh hipster in his sister's pants. This is not a good look with a sports coat, and it's definitely not a proper cut for an adult's suit. Suit pants are hard to get right, but "jean cut" ain't right any more than grandpa pantaloons are right (though grandpa is way more right than this). Main thing to avoid is looking like you have poopy pants. Your solution might be good for off the rack. Since I squat heavy and am a snob, I can't buy off the rack anyway.

I think pleats can be OK in certain styles of suit. English country style or heavy tweeds, its almost mandatory.
imamazedby.files.wordpress…jeeves-and-wooster.jpg
Though in 99% of cases, you're totally right. Much respect for all the rest; the "billowing sails as shirt" thing really chafes my well-dressed hide: seeing that is the worst.

This is a huge priority for guys out there! Ladies need to take note as well. I have been told by women to get pleated and cuffed pants?! Seriously.

All it takes is to look at what looks good in magazines and the tips outlined in this article to make huge improvements.

With that said, I think I need to take some shirts and get them tailored.

-Sam

Double-breasted suits.
I don't think that "rules" apply universally to all suit types.
I wear nothing but double breasted suits, and have been told, and read, over and over that DBs look best wit pleats and cuffs. The reasoning is that a DB jacket, with its double-breast, extra buttons, and peak lapels, makes for a big heavy look. If you don't pleat and cuff the pants you look like you have a huge upper body and a tiny lower body.
And this "fashion forward" tight suit jacket thing looks terrible. If you buy good suits, with good material, you want it to hang from your body. This goes double for a double breasted. It should fit well, and be tailored to your body type, but having the material pulled sideways at the button defeats the purpose of showing off the drape of good material.

Just my $0.02.

Way to just cop out of the big legs section and say get smaller legs. Yeah, duh, I would do that if I could. I am in great shape, but just happen to genetically have big legs that, even after losing weight, wont go down past a certain size. Your other advice is good, but you couldn't have at least said something useful about guys with big legs?

vents: you can go with a single, but im a big fan of the double…its classic British but most of the Italian labels have two as well. No vent is reserved almost eclusively for tuxedos (though i do have a suit or two, not tuxedo, with no vent–evening wear certainly).

Some of this advice is frankly no good.
It won't suit a good many people because of shape differences. It might be fashionable to have a tight coat, but the fact of the matter is if it's too tight it pulls the vents apart and causes the front opening to gape when the top button is fastened. Waist tapering is not the same as tightness.

I don't wear pleated trousers, but they can and do work on certain people and are not necessarily baggy. One of the reasons for the pleats is to provide movement without bagginess. They shouldn't be being written-off on the strength of el-cheapo reverse pleated trousers worn popularly in America.
No-one will readily find very high-waisted trousers anymore, of the kind worn with braces, so I see the advice about the rise causing people to think a regular rise is too long (it isn't) and purchasing foolish hipsters, which look idiotic and immature as part of a suit. The best advice for trousers (not "a pant" that's women's wear talk) is to buy them to fit you correctly through the crotch and legs and have the waist and hems altered if necessary. It's cheaper and easier than fooling about altering the seams.

Three button jackets work well on tall people. All of Roger Moore's suits on The Saint were 3-button and looked very good. George Lazenby. btw, wore a fitted shirt in OHMSS, long before Daniel Craig and with better construction. Craig's styling is noting special and has no hallmarks of great style. Connery's Bond had a simple refinement with nice touches like the cocktail cuffs.

There was no mention of shirt cuffs, collars or ties.

I think you are completely wrong about pleats not being the 'bond look'. Just watch Dr No, From Russia With Love or any of the early movies and they all had forward pleated trousers.

The purpose here is to create a full silhouette from the shoulders down to the leg. – Just take a look at the suit warn by Cary Grant in North By Northwest. Pleated trousers that helped to make the whole look perfect.

Because pleated trousers are usually positioned higher on the waist (the natural waist) they help to create the perfect silhouette.

Having flat fronted trousers is no problem, but they are not necessarily the "Bond look' – they are more the Daniel Craig 'look'

What you are suggesting here is 'fashion' and as Coco Channel famously said "Fashion goes out of fashion" – take a look at Sean Connery in Dr No – except for the rather narrow lapels on his jackets, they could be easily worn today and still look amazing. All pleated trousers. The perfectly classic suit. Never dated, never out of fashion.

Connery's dinner jacket at the casino in Dr. No is double-vented. Short vents common in the late '50s and the 1960s.

i found this to be very helpful, thank you very much! but i have a question though… in the picture in tip #5, what brand is the tuxedo jacket??? because i really like it and i want to get the same one for an upcoming event.

The most useful points to be dressed well, I'll go to buy a dress for a marriage party and will with considering these points firstly.

Thanks for the share/post

"Lose weight" is pretty unhelpful advice for someone with a belly that needs a suit in the short term. Is your advice to wear a suit with too-big shoulders, or is there an actual solution? Can shoulders be tailored, and can waists? If yes, which is easier/cheaper to tailor?

While many of Rusty's style- tips are still useful, his advice discounts suit-makers trend toward popular styles, thus limiting our choices to what sells instead of what we want to buy. Many online articles point to a sagging economy as the culprit behind this Wal-Mart effect. Cheaper cloth with machine-cut stitching being passed-off as hand-stitched by commission-hungry sales reps. who have no problem lying to unsavvy consumers. Sadly, this practice is more commonplace than it is rare. Most men look nothing like James Bond. Try fitting that suit on a 5'9", 200Lb. frame with an even slightly-visible belly. Even WITH suspenders, the look is ridiculous. The better tips have come from the replies following Rusty's article. Thanks, Guys & Gals. You'll notice that Rusty hasn't replied to your posts in a long time. No need to wonder why. it's obvious to any readers paying attention.

So i just bought some shirts from Express(new store here) man what a mistake. I'm about to return everything after reading terrible reviews; Except for the fit,which is awesome. I got a laugh in your above example of a proper fitted shirt and it's the Express 1MX and why i went to the store. So i'm off to go find a hugo boss shirt now
Lots of online snob's, that are against colour it seems, said to try Charles Tyrwhitt, TM Lewin or modern tailor but it's seems like they must have been an old boys club member because everything is so bland looking. Pockets, or just pastel type blues etc or hideous coloured stripes, pretty much nothing you could wear without covering it up with a suit and having a nice tie distract from it.

I work for an engineering company with multi billion dollar projects and 99% of the people don't wear suits, so I'm not sure why people are trying to push places like brooks brothers on people, they have some of the most ugly shirts, Sears has better looking shirts. So thank you for the confirmation that I'm not insane for thinking BB is old mans.

What are the rules for colours in a business professional environment sans jacket? Should it be broken up with a pattern? Stick to blues/lighter colours if solid etc.

Thanks!

Hey,
i found it to be very helpful .. though i had a question is what kinda stuff would yew prefer with combination for suit with sweat shirt underneath.. I've designed a suit n searched various things in eastern , western etc but it wasn't acceptable so what would you suggest??!! From your stuff or any other?! Um planning to go for broken up market pattern for upcoming event.. and definitely i will prefer your suggestion for mine choice .. !! as your choice is pretty cool..!!

Thanks!!

To people that want intelligent advice on how to buy a suit, you can follow pretty much what the author said but we need to revise some parts of it.

If you want to look "passable", you can but a suit anywhere for any price. If you want to look "good", you can get a Boss suit (not too bad). You need to find a suit that fits you well when you try it on you (without too much alterations).

Try to find a suit that is at least "half-canvassed" and made in wool (thread 100). For the dress shirts, to find fitted ones is a nice thing but be intelligent and choose accordingly to your size. 100% cotton is a must.

For a real "James Bond" effect, you will need to go shop at expensive stores and to get a high quality suit. In all honesty, we all need to understand something: the bullshit that if a suit fits you well will make you shine like a hero is a half-false statement.

A suit that fits you well will help (of course) but is the fabric is cheap, you will still look cheap. You wanna look like James Bond, go for at least an Ermenegildo Zegna suit, Armani suit or Tom Ford suit.

Under that, you will not be James Bond "like". Dress shirts are the same thing, $100 for a dress shirt is a basic good one. $200 are better.

Example, Daniel Craig in Quantum of Solace, Tom Ford suit ($5,000), dress shirt ($300), tie ($200), shoes ($1,500), wool overcoat ($4,000). I'm not saying you need this precise stuff but still, you need to spend to look good.

I just red 90 % of the comments on the page. I will say that for everyone that wants to hear it: never go cheap on a suit. It is something we have 1 or 2 and it should last around 6 to 8 years (depending how much we wear them).

If you want a real suit, you go to companies that are expert in the subject, no crappy stores for $200… I suggest to anyone to go see expensive suits, feel them, try them. The day I've tried a Tom Ford wool jacket, I told myself "wow, this is quality". The day I have tried a Ermenegildo Zegna suit, I was amazed.

Shoes, go for at least Allen-Edmonds, A. Testoni. Forget the Gucci and Ferragamo, they still make crappy shoes in their lines.

John Lobb is arguably the best shoe maker in the world. You pay but you get quality.

Okay, you have some good comments here, particularly the fitted dress shirts – if you can afford em. Expensive!

But some of your advice is way off base, in my opinion. Suitcoats that are too tight look RETARDED. I was watching a TV sportscaster the other day (a gentleman who clearly spends a good deal of time in the gym) and his overly tight suit looked plain stupid. A suit coat should never be baggy, this is true, but a coat that pulls and looks stretched on is just as stupid. A truly properly fitted suit should be hard to get on and easy to wear. It should drape beautifully and accentuate the male form, not look like it's straining to stay buttoned.

Secondly, you need to broaden your horizons; pleated and cuffed trousers, high waistlines, etc. are not for everyone, but certain forms are flattered by such styles. For others, a flat front with no cuff is just the ticket. Wide, thick bodied, short men should never wear pleated pants with cuffs; it makes them look like fat dwarves.

On the other hand, tall slender gentlemen can rock the pleats and cuffs and look impeccable. Take a look at some photos of Mr. Carey Grant sometime, and you'll see just what I mean.

The rule of thumb for men's stylish attire can be summed up in this: a gentleman's attire should always be moderate, aesthetically pleasing and harmonious. Don't wear what someone else tells you is "the in thing" just because they say so. You would be surprised what looks awesome on certain people.

Fashion is fleeting; style is forever.

I overall like the post, and agree with most of the comments. I sold custom made suits for nearly 20 years, so I know a thing or two about clothing. My only negative comments would be the following:

The picture of the tux is not a well fitting suit. First, the lapels are buging slightly (although this may be the way the person is standing, and the button pulls at the front indicating it is a little tight (and in this case the button stance is a bit too high. You could come up with a better "ideal fit" that shows off a tapered waist that doesn't pull.

You tell people to dry clean their shirts, when you actually mean launder. Dry cleaning is entirely unecessary and far more costly. Laundering is definitely worth the effort for an all cotton shirt, although I would seriously question the increased longevity. The water temperatures used at commersial launderies is twice as hot as you could do your shirts at home, which over time wears a shirt out. That being said, ironing ones own cotton shirts is a pain, and I can't imagine many people doing this either.

Overall, from a current day stype perspective I think your comments are good. Unless you have huge thighs, flat-front pants are the way to go. Three button is pretty out of style, although I still wear a few as I'm not discarding perfectly good suits. If you get flat fronts, then no cuffs is the norm, so agree with you there as well.

zzz,

yes, shoulders can be tailored, but only by a good tailor, and it is expensive. Waists are typically easier to a point, but there is only a finite amount of fabric at the seams, and far less if the suit has side vents. Often a better alternaitive is to find a store that sells "portly" suits, which are made for people with a 3" drop from chest to waist, rather than the standard 6" drop (7-8 for more athletic cuts). Brooks Brothers may still carry portly model suits, but not a lot of stores do.